A Local’s Guide to Surviving (and Loving) St. John’s Weather

St. John’s weather is a character all on its own. It’s moody, unpredictable, and sometimes downright ridiculous, but if you can learn to roll with it, you just might fall in love with this city even more.

Around here, talking about the weather is not really small talk. We talk about the wind, how long it has been raining, whether the fog is ever going to lift and whether summer plans to make an appearance this year.

The weather can determine what you wear, whether your flight lands, whether your boat tour leaves and whether Signal Hill is visible when you get there. It can also change considerably between downtown and the exposed coastline only a short drive away.

If you’re visiting, the trick is not finding a week with guaranteed good weather. That week does not exist. It is knowing what different times of year tend to bring, packing for more than one possibility and being willing to change your plans when the rain starts blowing sideways.

Expect Four Seasons in a Day

There is a reason people say St. John’s can experience four seasons in one day.

A morning can begin cold and grey, brighten by noon and end with fog moving in from the Atlantic. Rain can become snow, snow can become slush and slush can freeze solid overnight.

Weather forecasts are useful, but the temperature on your phone never tells the whole story. Wind and dampness can make 10°C feel much colder than expected, particularly at Signal Hill, Cape Spear and along the coast.

This is why people in St. John’s dress in layers. Even during summer, keeping a sweater and a waterproof jacket nearby is rarely a bad decision.

Why Is St. John’s Weather Like This?

Most of the blame belongs to our location.

St. John’s sits on the eastern edge of the Avalon Peninsula, exposed to weather systems moving across the North Atlantic. There is very little standing between the city and whatever the ocean decides to send our way.

The ocean keeps our summers cooler than much of mainland Canada and prevents winter temperatures from remaining extremely cold for long periods. That may sound like a reasonable arrangement, but it also helps create the wet, changeable conditions St. John’s is known for.

In winter, temperatures often hover close to freezing. A small change can turn snow into rain, rain into freezing rain or yesterday’s slush into today’s ice. That is why one storm can seem to contain every form of precipitation available.

The cold Labrador Current flows south along the coast of Newfoundland. When warmer, moisture-filled air moves over that colder water, the air cools and fog forms. This happens most often during late spring and early summer, helping explain why May and June can be so foggy even as temperatures are rising elsewhere.

The Gulf Stream also carries warmer water through the North Atlantic farther offshore. You will sometimes hear that the Gulf Stream and Labrador Current meet at St. John’s, but that is an oversimplification. Their influence on the waters and air of the wider region contributes to the sharp contrasts that make our weather so unsettled.

Add frequent Atlantic storms, an exposed coastline and a generous supply of wind, and you get a city where the weather can change before you have finished complaining about the previous version.

January and February: Proper Winter

January and February are the heart of winter in St. John’s. Daytime temperatures usually hover around freezing or slightly below it, with colder temperatures overnight.

But temperature is only part of a St. John’s winter.

A single storm can bring snow, rain, sleet and freezing rain. Heavy snow may turn to rain and begin melting, only for the temperature to fall and freeze everything by morning. The result is often a mixture of high snowbanks, wet slush, deep puddles and ice.

Visitors need a warm coat, gloves and waterproof winter boots with decent grip. Ordinary walking shoes are not going to enjoy a February encounter with a downtown snowbank.

Winter storms can also delay flights, make driving difficult and close businesses or attractions. If you are travelling during these months, leave some room in your schedule rather than planning every hour before you arrive.

When Snowmageddon Took Over the City

Every so often, the weather stops being part of the day and takes over the entire city.

On January 17, 2020, the storm now known as Snowmageddon dropped 76.2 centimetres of snow on St. John’s in a single day.

Strong winds piled the snow into enormous drifts, burying vehicles and trapping some people inside their homes. St. John’s remained under a state of emergency for eight days, and the Canadian Armed Forces were called in to help with the cleanup.

Snowdrifts covering the front door of our home following Snowmageddon in January 2020. Photos: City of Legends.

For days, people dug out doors, searched for vehicles beneath the snow and cleared narrow paths between houses. These photos give you a better idea of the snow than any official measurement can.

Most winter visits will not involve calling in the army, but Snowmageddon showed what St. John’s weather can do when it decides subtlety is overrated.

March and April: Don’t Call It Spring Yet

March can still be fully winter, and April is anyone’s guess.

Just when the snowbanks begin shrinking and people start talking optimistically about spring, another snowfall arrives and buries the evidence. In St. John’s folklore, a burst of stormy weather around St. Patrick’s Day is known as Sheila’s Brush, winter’s supposed final sweep before spring.

“Final” is sometimes doing a lot of work in that sentence.

Daytime temperatures gradually rise through March and April, but snow, cold rain and freezing rain remain possible. This is also the season of slush by day and ice by morning.

Waterproof footwear matters more than having the warmest boots. Downtown St. John’s is hilly, and wet pavement can become slippery after an overnight freeze.

Check current conditions before heading onto trails. A mild afternoon downtown does not mean the North Head Trail is free of snow, ice or mud.

May and June: Rain, Drizzle and Fog

May and June are often cooler than visitors expect. Spring arrives slowly in St. John’s, and the cold North Atlantic has no interest in rushing things along.

This is prime season for RDF: rain, drizzle and fog.

RDF is not an official weather term, but nobody in St. John’s requires an explanation. The fog can hide Signal Hill, erase the Southside Hills and leave ships sounding their foghorns as they approach the Narrows.

Sometimes it lifts within hours. Other times, the city seems to misplace the sky for several days.

The rain is not always heavy. It can be a fine drizzle that hangs in the air and gradually dampens everything. At other times, it arrives sideways, driven by enough wind to make an umbrella more decorative than useful.

A waterproof jacket with a hood is essential. Water-resistant footwear will also make walking downtown considerably more pleasant.

May and June can be excellent months for seeing icebergs near St. John’s. Just remember that iceberg sightings, boat tours and coastal views all depend on conditions. If the forecast offers you a clear day, use it rather than assuming tomorrow will be equally cooperative.

July and August: Summer, Whenever It Arrives

July and August give you the best chance of warm, settled weather. Afternoon temperatures commonly reach the high teens or low twenties, and warmer days certainly happen.

When summer finally arrives, St. John’s makes the most of it. Patios fill, trails become busy and everyone heads outside at once because we know better than to assume the weather will remain perfect until the weekend.

Even in July and August, evenings can be cool and fog can move in quickly. Conditions near the coast may also be completely different from those downtown. You can leave the city in sunshine and arrive at Cape Spear wondering where it went.

Pack summer clothes, but bring a sweater and light waterproof jacket too. If you are taking a cruise, boat tour or spending time near the ocean, you will probably appreciate an extra layer.

These are generally the best months for whale watching, hiking and sightseeing. Travellers arriving by ship can also use the St. John’s cruise port guide to decide what can realistically fit into one day.

September and October: Often Beautiful, Never Guaranteed

September can be one of the nicest months in St. John’s.

The worst of the summer crowds have passed, temperatures are often comfortable and there can be beautiful clear days. Early fall is a good time for walking downtown or exploring the coast without the busiest summer traffic.

It is also hurricane season.

Tropical storms moving north through the Atlantic can bring heavy rain and powerful winds to Newfoundland. They do not arrive every week, but they are worth watching when planning a September or October visit.

By October, cooler temperatures and unsettled weather become more common. You may get crisp autumn sunshine, several days of rain or both during the same trip.

Bring a waterproof outer layer, warmer clothing and sturdy shoes. If you plan to explore beyond the city, read the guide to whether you need a rental car in St. John’s. Weather can change quickly on coastal roads, and a car gives you more freedom to move plans around when one day looks better than another.

November and December: Wet, Windy and Unsettled

November and December do not always look like traditional winter.

There may be snow, but there may also be rain, sleet and freezing rain. Snow can fall one day and disappear during heavy rain the next. Temperatures generally fall through both months, but conditions may continue switching between autumn and winter.

The days are shorter, storms become more frequent and outdoor sightseeing requires more planning. A waterproof winter coat is ideal because you may need protection from rain and snow during the same trip.

Bring warm layers, gloves and waterproof footwear. Leave additional time around flights and longer drives when a storm is approaching.

The Wind Changes Everything

No matter when you visit, pay attention to the wind.

St. John’s is one of Canada’s windiest cities, and exposed areas can feel dramatically different from sheltered streets. A temperature that sounds mild may feel anything but mild once you are standing on Signal Hill with the Atlantic wind coming at you.

The wind whistles between downtown buildings, sends garbage bins travelling without supervision and occasionally turns opening a car door into a two-handed job.

It also drives rain sideways. This is why locals generally trust a good raincoat more than an umbrella.

High winds may cancel boat tours, close exposed attractions and make coastal trails dangerous. If Environment Canada issues a wind warning, take it seriously. Before heading up the hill, you can also read more about the history of Signal Hill, just in case the weather decides you will be admiring it through fog.

What Should You Pack?

A waterproof jacket with a hood is useful during every season. In spring and summer, choose one light enough to wear over a sweater. In winter, you will need a warmer insulated coat that can also handle wet weather.

Bring comfortable, water-resistant footwear with decent grip. St. John’s is compact, but it is not flat. Rain, slush and ice make the hills more noticeable.

Pack clothing that can be layered. A sweater or fleece beneath a waterproof outer layer will cover many situations. Even during summer, keep something warm available for evenings, boat tours and trips to exposed coastal areas.

Finally, avoid packing an itinerary with no room to move. Do not save every outdoor attraction for the final day of your trip. If the weather is clear, visit Signal Hill, Cape Spear or the coast while you have the chance.

When the Weather Refuses to Cooperate

Bad weather does not have to waste an entire day.

The Rooms, local galleries, cafés and downtown shops offer plenty of places to spend a wet or foggy afternoon. This is also a good time to explore Water Street, provided the rain is not arriving completely sideways. You can read about how Water Street helped build St. John’s before walking it.

If a boat tour or coastal drive is important to you, book it early enough in your visit that you have another possible day available. Weather cancellations are disappointing, but much worse when you deliberately saved the experience until the morning of your flight home.

Learning to Roll With It

St. John’s does not have perfect weather. Nobody living here would attempt to make that argument with a straight face.

But the weather is part of the city. It gives us mornings when familiar landmarks disappear into fog, waves crashing against the coast, streets buried beneath snow and summer evenings nobody wants to waste.

The secret to surviving it is not finding a perfect forecast. It is bringing the right clothes, keeping your plans flexible and going outside when the opportunity presents itself.

Around here, waiting for guaranteed good weather is an excellent way to never leave the house.